Saturday, December 29, 2012

La fin est ici (The end is here)

Day 7

My daughter offers to pay for a taxi from the hotel to CDG....sure, why not?

We notify the front desk and when we go to check out there is a taxi waiting for us.

It is early, my favorite time of day in Paris, and we ride through the city to the freeway, heading to the airport. The taxi drops us at our gate (about $50 for taxi to airport)...they take Visa.

We get security and get checked in....first 3 on the standby list again. Then we look around the airport and wait for our departure. I find the shop I went to the year before to see if I could find the frog bank that had been stolen from my bag the year before but could not find the bank.

Our flight boards, we're sad to leave Paris but happy in first class. I get my glass of champagne and when we have taken off, recline in my seat.

I spend the next 9 hours as a princess again, being pampered and spoiled...and annoyed by one a-hole male flight attendant. He was so bad that the female attendant kept apologizing for his behavior.

We get to DFW airport, catch our Parking Spot shuttle back to the parking lot and head home.

This trip was well worth it. My preparation made sure we were ready for any surprises we experienced and though our plans were thrown off and we didn't get to see everything we wanted to, we had a great time.

On the flight the kids kept talking about what we would do on our next trip and said they now understand why I love Paris so much.

So from then I set a new goal. I now want to move to Paris permanently and have begun my process by first trying to find a job as according to my research that is the most difficult part.

Stay tuned as I continue to keep you up on my mission of : Destination...Paris

Champs Elysees

Day 6...The end is near.

This day we decide to walk Paris. We first go to the Left Bank. Because it is August and most Parisians are on vacation there were not a lot of artists there. We found some keepsakes and then walked toward the National Academy of Music. While there we see someone in a chicken suit, think it is funny and then I take pictures of the kids with the 'chicken'. The lady in the suit then asks for money. It was one of those gypsy ladies, or whatever they are. We give her a couple of Euros and then move on, stopping by a shoe store and my daughter and I each got a pair of shoes. I told the sales lady I wanted then in Negro, but my son corrected me and said, no it is Noir.
We go to the Galleries LaFayette. My daughter is a bit of a fashionista, so she is in heaven at that point. She buys some French parfume and then we walk around the mall. After a while, we need to use the bathroom....but can't find it. We search and search and search. Need to use the bathroom bad....we finally find it on the 5th or 6th floor, I forget. You would think a mall that size would have a bathroom on every floor....NO.

We leave there and go to the Champs Elysees. We go to the Louis Vuitton store...my daughter has been waiting for this. I don't really want to go in because I know how expensive it is and I'm still offended. We go in, my daughter is looking around, my son and I find a spot to sit...the employees tell us we cannot sit in there (but we're tired). We look around, my son sees a simple knit cap that is 300EU. He has figured out Euros by now and know that is ridiculous. He says, "I can knit you a cap for less". I agree. My daughter rounds the corner and you can see the disappointment on her face. She thinks the prices are ridiculous too. We can afford to buy something this trip, it's the principle. We get out of there. I then take the kids to the Arc de Triomphe. We don't get to go up....my son says next trip for sure.

We then walk down the Champs Elysees and stop at an outdoor restaurant. We get something to eat then catch the metro back to Les Halles. We try to walk around the mall but it is almost 10p the mall is about to close. We take the escalator out and walk past a park where people are still out playing ping pong...so cool.

We go back to the hotel and get everything packed up to leave the next day.

So sad.

Museum day

Day 5.....This day we are doing museums. I'm going to have to remove a few places from the itinerary but want us to get the most out of it. We find a location that sells museum passes. We only need to buy 2 because my son being under 16 years old can get into most places free. Well, I still haven't found a working ATM and only have US cash on me. The museum pass location does not take US cash, so Visa it is. We leave there and head to Saint Chapelle.

Saint Chapelle is a MUST visit in Paris. It is a beautiful old church. The first floor is mostly a gift shop, then you go up this steep and winding staircase (my son wears a size 16 shoe, it wasn't easy for him) and get to the top of this great room. There are floor to ceiling stained glass windows and candle chandeliers (replicas of real candles used in the past). The walls are covered with carvings of bible stories. Thsi was done because at that time people could not read so they were able to read the bible this way. It is supposed to be a place of quiet and reflection but the loud tourists ruin that. The employees are constantly shushing the toursits and camera flashes don't cease. We find the sortie and head down a narrow winding staircase...slowly so my son doesn't trip over his feet.

Next we go to La Conciergerie. There is a replica of Maria Antoinette's jail cell and lots of history. Before we get there, we stop by a room that has a list of everyone who was executed by guillotine. Three of the four walls in the room are covered. People come here and look to see if any of their ancestors are on the list. I'm of Native American descent, so none of my family is there.
Then we go to Notre Dame. There was an African guy outisde selling Eiffel Tower keychains, 10 for 1EU. Sounds like a deal to me. I buy about 30...souvenir gifts done...at a discount price. We go into Notre Dame. Because of the time they are no longer doing tours to the top. We notice there is a church service going on, so we stop and attend the church service. It was beautiful...except for the rude tourists who wouldn't be respectful and stop snapping pictures and wouldn't shut up. AFter the service we leave Notre Dame to the tourists.

Then we decide to take the train to Versailles. Part of the metro is still under repair, so we catch the free bus in St. Michel and go to the stop next to the Invalides to find the connection. We find the connection and get on the train to Versailles.

It was a smooth ride. On the way we see a replica of the Statue of Liberty. We get off in Versailles. It is late in the day now and the last train back to Paris is leaving in 30 minutes. We didn't get to go to the castle or the gardens...damn damn damn.

Now everybody is leaving Versailles, so the train is FULL, like barely standing room only. And at every stop when you think one more person cannot fit on, well they squeeze themselves on anyway. Ugh, I hate this. We finally get back to Paris (about 30 minutes) and catch the bus back to St. Michel and walk back to Les Halles and the hotel.

Tomorrow is our last full day, so we have to fit in what we can...I had to take the Catacombs off my list. (sad face)


Walk like a Parisian

When in Paris...do as the Parisians do.

We awaken from a GREAT night sleep. Get our showers and head downstairs.

*** SIDEBAR: Remember in a prior post I mentioned the 'forbidden' courtyard in my previous hotel? Well turns out that Citadines (old hotel) and Novotel (new hotel) is a connected in a typical Parisian building which has a central courtyard. Turns out that courtyard belongs to Novotel though and is only available to Novotel guests. The guy could have told me this last year. So I went into 'the forbidden' courtyard. Took a pic and emailed it to Becky. Ha ha ha! ***
The kids and I head out to the Louvre. If done right, that should take up most of the day. Through my research I knew that trying to enter the Louvre through the pyramid would mean waiting in line all day. So we went to one of the side entrances, close to the Seine, we were able to walk right in. Of course the most popular attraction at the Louvre is the Mona Lisa, so we start following the signs that leads to her. Along the way we get wrapped up in the art. My daughter thought she loved bookstores, well turns out she LOVES museums.
  
We spend most of the day in the Louvre, taking pictures. We finally get to the room with the Mona Lisa. The crowd is just ugh. We get closer and there is the little picture, behind a glass wall and with armed guards...really?! That's it?! Yep, that was it. We were not impressed. We take a pic then prepare to leave as the crowd is annoying. We turn around and WOW. If you ever go into the room in the Louvre where the Mona Lisa is located, stand in front of her and then turn around. There was a picture, floor to ceiling (about 20 - 30 feet tall), beautiful. We spent our next moments reviewing that piece. Wondering how it was created, especially at that scale. Even my son was impressed with the Louvre. He had grown accustomed to the nudity by now, but was still concerned about the small sizes of the men's penises, LOL.
When we exited the Louvre, through the pyramid, we decided that a boat tour was in order. I had run out of Euros and had not been able to locate a working ATM (my tips have a purpose) so I was trying to use my Visa. Every boat we went to said they do not take Visa. We get to one that does and while purchasing our passes, I see that they offer a discount to people with an International SOS card. Huh, what I tell ya?

We get on the boat tour and start paying attention. Apparently there were stops all along the Seine, so if you do the boat tour, you don't have too walk. You can buy a pass for the day and use the boat as a taxi to get around. Son of a gun. We road the boat down to the Eiffel stop and got off. We then went to the Eiffel Tower, this time we want to go up. Me, I'm not good with heights, but I'm a trouper, so let's do this.

We wait in line, about 30-45 minutes, luckily they take Visa and we get on. They pack you like sardines on those elevators. We get to the 2nd floor and get off. The kids are more excited than I've ever seen them....me, I have vertigo. I adjust and even I can admit that the view is AMAZING. The top level is so full that they say it will be over an hour before they start letting anyone back up there...I'm not waiting another hour. The kids say they will go to the top on our next visit....they want to come back!!!!

We go back down, so to the boat launch and catch our boat back towards home. It rains a little, but we are on a covered boat so it's ok. We get off on the Notre Dame stop and walk home, taking in shops as we go. We get back to our neighborhood and sit in the Fontaine des Innocents courtyard for a while, sightseeing and people watching before we go back to the hotel for the night.

Tomorrow, more museums.


Vacation à Paris

We are settled in a hotel. We are comfortable. We are secure. We are happy.

Time to explore.

I take the kids on a tour around Les Halles. We go to the mall, my son is a swimmer and they have a great indoor pool. We go to St. Eustace. We go to the Fontaine des Innocents. We go to the Pompidou Centre. I'm basically trying to squeeze days 1 & 2 into one day to make up for lost time as much as possible. We explore the 4th arrondissement (Marais) and love it too. My daughter finds a Hello Kitty store and now she is happier than I've ever seen her. I thought she loved Louis Vuitton, no she loves Hello Kitty.

My son is happy too. We walk around the Jardin de Tuileries and the young French girls find him interesting.

HIM: Are they looking at me?
ME: Yes, they think you're cute.
HIM: What?! Really?!

He took another glance as he passed them and they were whispering and giggling.

We are looking at the art, some of which are nymphs. My son is a little embarrassed about all the nakedness. Later he asked why all the men statues have such small private parts. I told him, so that the statues are still artistic without being too obnoxious....what? it might be true. He accepted that answer anyway. We ate at one of the outdoor cafes in the garden. I had a chicken salad, the kids sandwiches. That French bread is tough. They fed some bread to the birds and hoped the birds would not choke.

From my research I knew that my son could get entrance to most museums for free because he was under 16. Yay!

We headed back to Rue di Rivoli, towards the hotel. Stopped by the Palais Royale, some shops then went back to our neighborhood.

We hung out in the Fontaine des Innocents courtyard, visiting shops and bookstores. My daughter loves bookstores. The kids saw a McDonalds. We got food there.

*** SIDEBAR: I hate McDonalds. The food at the Paris McDonalds was not like in the US. It was not greasy. We had baguettes. Actually not bad. We got Frites (French Sprites, but french fries too) then went back to our room.

We ate and watch French cartoons....funny. The kids wanted to explore more so they went out for a little while. That neighborhood is so people-friendly that I felt comfortable with them going out. But made sure they knew to still be aware of their surroundings.

While the kids were out, I started revising the itinerary and emailed some pics to their dad.

This vacation is back on track.

Vacation en péril

Our Parisian style of living, as well as our vacation, is now in peril.

The representative at AirBNB has been most helpful and gave me the address to Le Jardins Eiffel. We drag our bags (you'll hear this again) around trying to find it but cannot. We finally decide to get a taxi and he get us there. We get inside the hotel...not the right hotel. Apparently in the 7th arrondissement there are 3 hotels with a similar name, but the correct hotel was only across the street and 3 doors down.

We get to the hotel and get a room. The room has 3 twin beds, internet, cable and a/c! By now, my itinerary is pffttt, so we get our bags settled and decide since we're already in the 7th arrondissement that we'll walk to the Eiffel Tower. It was a short walk, the weather was nice and we get there just at 11pm and they are not taking any tours but the sparkly lights have started. YAY!!! My son is excited now. Neither kid has been impressed since we arrived at the apartment. They want drinks and order Sprites, which actually taste different in Paris, so they called the Frites (French Sprites). There are lots of people out and the mood is festive.

My daughter tries to find a spot where she can get close enough to lick the Eiffel Tower but they have too many barriers, but we do see a bust of Gustave Eiffel. We stay about an hour before going back to the hotel. We walk back to the hotel, take our showers and go to bed.

Day 1 in Paris is over!

The next morning the AirBNB rep calls me saying that they have not been able to get in touch with the landlord but cannot refund my money as long as the apartment is as listed. We go have our free continental breakfast then go back to 'the apartment' to wait for further instructions. About noon I hear from AirBNB and they said they are not supposed to do anything without at least talking to the landlord first. That they had emailed her and would keep me updated. We can only wait, so we decide to try to do part of the itinerary and go visit Les Invalides.

I hadn't had a chance to visit Les Invalides on my first visit to Paris, so this was very educational, impressive and the kids enjoyed it. We then went to the bus stop and caught the free bus (due to metro repairs) and got off at St. Michel. The environment was totally different here. The kids asked, "why aren't we staying over here?". Huh, I tried, it was my first choice too. I took them to see the Louvre (outside only that day), we read the historical markers, took some pics then I took them to see Notre Dame and we walked around the city. When it start getting late, we went back to the dreaded apartment took showers and tried to relax. My daughter and I took the futon, my son a mattress on the floor. It was hot in the apartment so we opened the window. Walkers-by kept looking into the window and then came the mosquitos. We had to choose between being hot or being bit by mosquitos. We chose the mosquitos. The AirBNB called again and they said they finally hear from the landlord and sayts they told her that she has until noon the next day to have the internet and cable working in the apartment or she would be guilty of false advertising and in default of the rental agreement. We spend a restless night...and I'm burning up data because I don't have internet.

The next morning we have breakfast and at noon the AirBNB rep says that they will refund me all of my money and would help me find somewhere else to stay while I'm there. They were very conscientious of the fact that I was a single woman there alone with 2 kids. I told them about the hotel I stayed in the year prior and told them I would call them when I got there. We caught the bus to St. Michel, the metro to Les Halles then went to the Citadines; they had no rooms available. Next door was Novotel and they did have rooms available. I secured a rooms for the kids and myself then we went back to the apartment, got our bags, dragged them to the bus stop, went back to St. Michel, metro to Les Halles, back to Novotel and settled into our permanent hotel room (with cable, a/c and internet)....in the 1st arrondissement, where I wanted to be all along.
Now, my itinerary is kaput, but let's get this vacation started.

Tips:
  1. AirBNB was great. A 3rd party in-between was a perfect decision.
  2. Do not rent from Sofie in Paris.
  3.  

Pied-à-terre or not to Pied-à-terre

We retrieve the key to the apartment, go to the apartment...trying not to make eye contact with anyone we see.

Let me list the negatives:

  1. We have to hide that we are there
  2. Find the apartment....it is in the basement
    • Had I known this, it would have been an automatic deal breaker
  3. Get into the apartment
    • apparently it used to be 2 apartments but had been split into 2, now it is so small that my son (he is 6'0") can stand in the center of the room and touch both walls
    • Other people clothes are still in the closet
    • For a room that is supposed to accommodate 4 (there's only 3 of us) there is only 1 futon and a mattress that is supposed to go on the floor in the only space available once the futon is opened....between the front door and the bathroom.
  4. The bathroom is small, but doable...it is Europe
    • But, there is a hole in the wall from the shower that goes into the main room. So everyone can hear and possibly smell whatever you do in there. Classy.
  5. The internet doesn't work.
  6. The cable doesn't work.
  7. The "fan" is a ventilation fan which provides no heat relief
    • Had brought a back-up fan just in case, but it worked off a 110 volt and the apartment had 220 volt plugs. Fan burned out in 60 seconds.
Let me list the positives:
  1. It is next to Les Invalides
  2. The neighborhood is beautiful
  3. The building is beautiful
That's it.
I try to call the landlord, no answer. I email the landlord (part of preparation is having contact info...important), she emails back to tell me that she cannot come by because she is out of town and emails me instructions on how to connect the internet. She says due to new Paris laws, cable doesn't work in that building but we can watch TV online.

First, it is not my job to fix the internet. Second, it is presumptuous to think I brought a computer to watch TV online. Finally, I cannot watch TV online because the internet doesn't work.

I try to fix the internet. I'm good with computers, the instructions did not work and she said it should work. Shouda, coulda, woulda. She should have made sure it was working before she left town. I told her that I would just rather stay somewhere else and wanted out of our agreement, she refused then stopped  answering my emails. I contacted AirBNB and let them know the situation. They tried to contact her to no avail then called me back to say that they do not agree with landlords being unavailable to both them and to tenants. I asked if they could just refund my money so that I could find another place. They said they could not as long as the apartment was according to the specifications in the agreement. In the meantime, because they could not get in touch with her, they found us a nearby hotel to stay for the night while they check things out (Le Jardins Eiffel). Price, 200EU per night.

The Arrival: Trials and Errors

So, I've prepared and here we go. We just landed at CDG.

We only brought carry-on, so we exit and get through Customs and Immigration with ease. We enter the lobby of the airport. I give the Currency Exchange the finger, LOL, then I use the ATM next to the Currency Exchange to withdraw some starter money. We head towards the RER. We get tickets from the machine and get to the train with no problem. My planning and research has paid off so far. Other than the hordes of people we had to navigate through to get to the RER, I have had no irritations yet (that'll change soon).
The plan was to take the RER to St. Michel then take the metro to the Invalides station and we would come out right at the apartment. That was the plan.

The RER stops at St. Michel station, there are signs saying that the metro is under repair from St. Michel to Invalides...of course it is. So we exit the metro (kept our tickets so we can get out, don't forget). Sortie, sortie, sortie. We're on the streets of Paris. I'm at home.Wow, the feeling came back, ok. They have footprints posted on the ground to show you where to go to catch a bus service they have set up to carry people from St. Michel to Invalides while repairs are going on. We follow the footprints, it's a change of plans, but it's all good. We find the bus and it lets out not the Invalides metro entrance/exit but at the one closer to the Seine, by the consulates. Now I'm disoriented. I pull out the iPad and use the interactive Paris map I downloaded (huh, preparation), plug in the apartment address and it leads us right to the apartment.

*** SIDEBAR: The week before we were to leave I received an email from the landlord with the apartment address as well as instructions for meeting her to get the key. Odd thing occurred, she gave me the address, said she wouldn't be able to meet us there but that we can pick up the key in specific mailbox in the building at noon. Then she said that if anyone in the building asks who we are, just say we are her friends. This struck me as odd and shady but a week before we leave I didn't have many options available within my budget so I proceeded. ***

We get to the apartment, so efficiently that it is not yet noon (flight landed at 11a), so we have to wait outside the building. Out of curiosity we checked the mailbox and the key was not yet there, so we know she hasn't been there yet. We sit on a bench outside the building (beautiful) and watch people entering and exiting the building. Surely if she comes and sees us sitting there she will introduce herself...surely. Then a light rain starts. Through my research I knew to be prepared for that so we had brought umbrellas just in case. The weather is fine, the rain is not heavy, we're a little annoyed but we're good. BTW: the apartment was RIGHT next to Les Invalides.

Noon comes and we had seen several people come and go from the building but none acknowledged our presence, but we decided to check the mailbox again.....the key was there.

So, this person had seen us sitting there in the rain and didn't bother to introduce herself or let us know the apartment was ready. This is the start of a shitty relationship.

Best Flight.....EVER!!!!

The kids and I are seated in 1st class on our way to Paris. As the other passengers are getting boarded the flight attendant comes by...

FA: Would you like something to drink? Wine? Champagne?
ME: Does it cost extra?
FA: Not up here
ME: ****** cheesing *****
ME: Why yes, I would like a glass of champagne.

This flight is starting off great.

I've flown 1st class before, but never like this. The seats are REALLY reclinable, I mean you can actually lay all the way down. There is a TV to each individual with a set of Bose headsets and a real blanket....not the kind we get in coach. We were each given a travel pack that included earplugs, a toothbrush, toothpaste, sleep mask, socks to sleep in, chap stick and other items.

Guess what.....I'm a princess!!!!
 

I would have to start a whole other blog just about international 1st class. I'll touch on it a little but let's just say it was AWESOME! The kids are impressed too. We were fed all types of French cuisine. When we got ready to sleep, the FA asked if we would like a wake up 'call'. We laid down (uh huh, laid) and slept. In the morning the FA came by and tenderly woke us, then provided us with a hot towel before serving us breakfast. I had an assortment of French cheeses and fruit. Ooh la la.

This trip I get a window, so I can see Paris on approach. My daughter (age 21) has been a little blasé about the whole Paris trip up to this point, looks out the window and says, "is that the friggin Eiffel Tower I'm looking at?", "I'm going to lick the Eiffel Tower!". That was odd, but ok, she's finally excited. My son (age 14) looks out the window, and is like "oh, can I go on the Eiffel Tower?". I tell him he can and he puts his headphones back on. My biggest concern in taking this trip is if he would be bored with the museums and such. So far, not good.

~~ The pilot has turned on the fastened seat belts sign, we are preparing for landing in 20 minutes ~~

Baby, I'm back!

Wanna Get Away !!!

Hell yes !!!! Pardon my English.

At the beginning of June 2011, Texas entered the beginning of what would turn out to be 60 days of consecutive triple digit high temps....ugh!

June 2011, financing are totally in order, time to reserve the apartment. Too late, now there is a 1 day conflict with the Les Halles apartment (sacre bleu). The lady tells me she has another place in the 7th arrondissement right next to Les Invalides (where Napoleon's tomb is located).

*** I hate the 7th arrondissement!!!!! (having a tantrum moment) ***

Ok I'm back.

The area is nice and quiet (too quiet) but too bourgeois for me, but I had been communicating with this lady for about 6 months and had developed a trust (huh). The pictures of the place looked nice and the price was the same. It was a studio apartment with cable and internet, no a/c but a fan would be provided, plus the August temp in Paris is not too warm (that's what she said). Ok, so I decided yes, and made the payment through AirBNB. Their policy is the landlord does not get the money until after the stay....good policy.

July 2011, the kids and I have got our international student ids made, we have our International SOS cards, copies of our important documentation and contact info has been turned into a pdf and I emailed it to myself and my daughter's and son's email as well (in case something happens to me or any combination of us). My ex and assistant has all of the information as well. I was given a gift in May 2011 of an iPad 2 (I know, wow), so I also loaded the information on the iPad and also downloaded free apps of Skype, the city and the metro system.

*** Meanwhile, here in Texas.....I'm melting ***

August 2011, everything is ready:

  1. Information and back-ups....check
  2. Assistant prepped for my absence....check
  3. iPad loaded....check
  4. Kids hyped....check
  5. Bags packed....check
    • 2 carryons are allowed, so we all took 1 roller bag and 1 backpack (that's all we needed)
    • Brought umbrellas
Time to go. August 15, 2011 leave home for straight flight from DFW to CDG. Get there early...first 3 on the standby list...YES!!!! Only bringing carryon so don't have to worry about checking bags. Standby list posts, we get 3 first class seats.....~~ doing my happy dance ~~ got our boarding passes, now I can breathe, first obstacle crossed.
Flight leaves at 5p, we get boarded....in 1st class....journey part deux begins....




Research and Planning

Yes, I'm a college instructor. Title says it all doesn't it?

First things first, I talked with my ex because when we fly standby they take the money directly from his check. My first trip wasn't a big deal but this time I'm going first class...yea yea the kids too, so I knew this trip would impact his check more. He agreed as long as I reimburse him for at least half....wow, that was easier and more generous than I expected.

Next, I started researching apartment rentals. I found one site, AirBNB (www.airbnb.com), which I thought seemed good. You would see in a future post how that decision turned out. Through AirBNB, I found several properties for rent and one individual in particular listed properties that were of interest to me and had great rates and received great reviews. There was a great property in the 1st arrondissement, in square of the Fontaine des Innocents, so for me it was perfect. The apartment rents for $600 US per week, so this would be an excellent option for the kids and I. I did not currently have the money to rent to the apartment, so I decided to keep an eye on it.

I also continued my research and designed an itinerary that would be allow us to visit key areas while walking through the city...at a normal pace and created an online itinerary through Nile Guide. There was a free app for Guides To Go.

Here are some prep tips to take into effect:

  1. Make sure your cell phone has international access....seriously
  2. Purchase conversion plugs (however many you will need for the electronics you will be taking with you)
    • Bringing a powercord won't hurt
  3. I work for a University, so we were all able to get international student ids
    • Also can get certain discounts throughout the city....boat tours is one (will talk about more in another post)
  4. Register with International SOS (www.internationalsos.com)
    • It is an organization that provides emergency medical assistance to travelers, also in the event of a REAL emergency they provide evacuation 
  5. Make sure to get important numbers, email, and addresses (for embassy and hotel)
    • Your bank
    • U.S. Embassy
    • AirBNB (or whoever you use)
    • Your landlord or hotel
  6. Scan all of your important documents, save them into a pdf and then email it yourself 
    • In the event anything is lost or stolen, you can access through your email from any location
    • Also make and email to yourself a back-up list of hotels where you would want to stay in case a problem occurs with your plans (you'll understand later)
  7. Learn the area in which you will be staying for things taken for granted
    • laundry
    • atm
    • market
    • pharmacy
  8. Pack lightly
    • You won't need a lot for a short trip

Paris Part Deux?

I had been bitten by the Paris bug.

My mission, and I chose to accept it, was to turn this 'once in a lifetime' opportunity into a repeat performance.

I gave myself a year to plan and set a date of August 15, 2011....for a 7 day stay.

This time would be different. I would be taking my kids (daughter 21, son 14) alone to a foreign country where we knew no one. I knew that I would have to be smart and prepared (I had the email addresses of our previous guides, so I had a backup plan in case of emergency). But I knew I would have to have a good plan:


  1. I chose August because it is the holiday for the French and not as busy. 
    • Thereby increasing our changes of getting a flight (remember, flying standby - trois)
  2. Realistic budget.
    • It'll be 3 of us now, so $400 US won't do it this time.
  3. Place to stay in safe part of town
    • I was familiar with and loved the 1st arrondisement, so stay there or in the 4th (Marais)
    • I wanted us to stay in an apartment instead of a hotel to experience Paris as a Parisien
  4. Itinerary
    • I wanted us to take our time and explore the ciy but to also see key parts of the city I felt would interest and inspire them
    • I would also be doing research for a class that I teach :-)
  5. An open mind
    • Nothing goes as plan, so be ready for ANYTHING!
So, now a year of diligent planning and saving goes into effect with 2 objectives in mind, bring my kids back alive and have fun.

I'm going back to Paris.....YAY!!!!!





Thursday, December 27, 2012

Bon Voyage Paris


The next morning, I leave early to get the CDG in time to check-in both me and my luggage.

**** Yea, be sure to you take the RER to Charles de Galle and not Charles de Galle Etoile ****

Wrong direction.....I almost missed the flight, LOL

I get all checked in and I made the first class list, YAY. Then, a newlywed couple who were in Paris comes up behind me and the desk clerk says, 'Oh, I would upgrade you but we only have one seat left in first class'. Then this #@#^#, decides to give them my seat so that they can sit together. Really?! Seriously?! Can't complain because we could lose our flight benefits!

Now I have to fly 9 hours back to Dallas in a middle seat and was miserable the entire flight. Finally we land, as I'm going through Customs I notice one of my bags was lighter and then saw that some of my souvenirs have been taken (stolen). I only left my bags unattended once when I went to the bathroom on the plane, so apparently the creep sitting next to meet saw an opportunity. What a jerk!

My babies are there to pick me up and now I'm on my way to the house...but I'm not going home.

*************************************************************

From that day, Paris is all I talked about. My kids, family and coworkers started saying I was obsessed with Paris. 

Maybe I am, but I know where my heart is and that started my journey to relocate permanently to Paris.

Just to make sure it wasn't just a school-girl crush, I started planning from that day for a return visit to Paris. This time I would take my kids with me for a second opinion. That adventure would begin in August 2011.

BTW: I spent 7 days in Paris. I took $400 US cash and brought money home, walked about 14 hours a day...I lost 15 pounds in 7 days.

Thank you for listening to my story, more to come.....



Museums

The next couple of days are pretty standard. We're running around Paris, my feet are hurting. We are pretty much walking 14 hours a day.


We start to hit the major museums. Again, wow.

The history, the culture, the architecture is all just the best thing I've ever experienced.


We've become quite comfortable with our surroundings. Have made friends at the market and the cafe. And I still just love that period of time between 7a-715a, before all the activity of the city gets started and all the loud tourists start venturing out.

That's right, I'm not a tourist anymore.

I sit in the courtyard and sketch and enjoy the coolness and peace of the morning.

In all of our walking for the past 7 days, we must have covered almost every arrondissement. I like the 1st and 4th (Marais) the most, they are quiet in the morning but come alive (in a good way) later. I found the 7th to be too bourgeois and frankly too boring. Non non non.

Then I get a message from my ex that I need to leave the next day because the flights on the day I'm supposed to leave are too booked and I would not likely make it home.....hmm, and the bad side is?

Right right, my kids, my mom. Ok, I have to go home the next morning.


The Forbidden

I didn't end the previous day because we didn't go straight to bed. About time huh.

When I left off, we had just bought a bottle of wine from the market next door and it was our plan to take that wine and relax in the beautiful courtyard that we had a wonderful view of from our room.



Ok, so we are now walking about the hotel laughing because apparently we cannot find the entrance to the courtyard. We know there is an entrance because from our room we have seen people sitting there enjoying themselves. But we cannot find the entrance for the life of us. So we play rock/paper/scissors to see who will go ask the guy at the front desk where the entrance is.

I lost, here's the conversation:

Me: Uh, bonjour
Him: Bonjour
Me. Um, can you tell me how to get out onto the courtyard, sil vous plait (I was being polite)
Him: No

(Becky is in the background laughing, I'm confused)

Me: Ok. Maybe you misunderstood me. We would like to sit out in the courtyard please (uh huh, I'm using English now).
Him: No
Me: Why
Him: It is forbidden

(Becky dying laughing now, I'm even more confused)

Me: Excuse me
Him: Non, it is forbidden!
Me: Well, alrighty then. But dude, you're being a little weird about your courtyard.

(Becky falls over!)

So, we just went to the courtyard of Fontaine des Innocents and drank our wine. But we were still curious why the courtyard was forbidden to us. I'll explain in another blog.

After our drinks we ended the day as normal, and began the next day as normal with my Skyping my kids and us having our usual breakfast at our usual cafe. The girl who works there now recognizes us. And yes, my feet still hurt.

On this day we spend a lot of time at the Louvre (never enough time there). The the Palace Royal and  go for lunch to Jardins des Tuileries. Having studied Landscape Architecture, this is a dream.


We're all sitting for lunch in the Tuileries and again I am ordering a grilled chicken salad. They had different types of salads, one was really interesting with rice, so I asked if I can have rice added to my salad. I was promptly told no. I was like, really?! And was then told that it was forbidden! Seriously!!!!! Apparently, it is not Burger King and I can't have it my way.

Yea, Becky is laughing again.

From there we walk to the Petite Palais, the Grand Palais and then we go to the Galleries LaFayette. I had never seen a mall like this....just wow! But I challenge you to find the bathroom in that place. You'd' think there would be one on every floor....NOPE. For future reference, it is on either the 5th or 6th floor, I don't remember.

Then we go to the Champs Élysées, yea baby! We go the Louis Vuitton store there, it is ridiculous expensive. My daughter is a LV nut, so I thought I'd go get her a scarf or something, pfffttt. Yea, if you have 300EU you have nothing else to do with. The prices were so ridiculous that I was actually offended. I went outside where there was a little souvenir shop and got some cards and gift to bring back home.


One of the students bought a pair of sunshades for 300EU. Seriously?! By now my paycheck has been direct deposited, but ain't no way I'd waste money like that. To each his/her own, that's just not me. I feel like I work too hard to pay that much money for a name.

We go back to hotel. The students have margarita night.

It was a good day.

Maison de Verre

The next day was pretty much the same as the previous.

My roommate and I got up early, I Skyped to my kids who all of a sudden can't stay awake until midnight...yea right. We went to 'our' cafe and got our cafe au laits, she her crepe and me my fresh fruit. Then meet the students and guide back at the hotel.

Again, lots of really fast walking (ow ow ow). We got to see architecture designed by Le Corbusier.



We then walk to the 7th arrondissement (same district as the Eiffel Tower) and we go to a nice restaurant. The decor are an architects and interior designers dream. It was very eclectic.

I had a really nice grilled chicken salad with goat cheese.

Our guide put us into 2 groups and then told us we would be going across the street to take a tour of Maison de Verre. YAY!!!! If you do not know about Maison de Verre and you love architecture, you have got to look it up. It is a former doctors house and office that was designed by Pierre Chareau from about 1927 to 1932. His use of glass block was very innovative for its time and the house has lots of advanced mechanisms, some advanced even by today's standards. Shoes and cameras are not allowed inside the house. The tour was about 20EU per/person but well worth it.

**** I'd like to take a moment to show how I'm still within my budget, uh huh ****

While the first group was doing their tour, the rest of us decided to explore the neighborhood.

One girl and I walked around and came across a pastry shop. With all the running we'd been doing we had not had any opportunity to enjoy such things.  But now, YAY! We enter the shop and speak to the guys working there...bonjour. They love when you at least try. They smiled and said bonjour back. Because of my food allergies I have to be very careful, so in broken French I asked "parle vous anglais", the guy said a little and then said "parle vous francais", I lied and said a little. I then asked, in English, if there were any nuts in the pastries. He said that all of the crusts have either almonds or cashews....a death sentence for yours truly. CRAP! I cannot even eat the pastries in Paris :(. So, I got something unmemorable while my companion had a tasty pastry (hey that rhymed). 

We sat for a while under a tree just enjoying our surroundings until it was our turn for the tour.

The tour was excellent! I wish I had spy glasses to take secret pictures ;).

Maison de Verre was great. We were allowed to take pictures of the courtyard.

After the tour we caught the metro back to Les Halles. We got cleaned up, went to the market next door and bought a bottle of wine. I can't believe I lasted that long.



A rude awakening

7am, midnight in Dallas. I Skype my kids to make sure they get to bed ok.

My roommate and I decide to go out for breakfast, but as I get out of bed to go to the bathroom I notice something really odd...my feet HURT!

I take a hot shower and go back to my bed and realize the bottoms of my feet are covered in humongous blisters (Thanks Christian!).  Really, my first full day in Paris and I'm already injured...only me.

We go to a cafe in the courtyard of the Fontaine des Innocents, find a nice place and get breakfast. I get a cafe au lait and some fresh fruit. Becky gets a cafe au lait and crepes.

This time of day in Paris is wonderful. The crowds are not out yet, its peaceful, there is a slight chill in the air and I'm in great company. We enjoy these precious moments before going back to the hotel to make sure the students are up and ready (we heard them sneaking out last night) and to meet our guide.

All is good until we realize that how we walk and how Parisians walk are vastly different. We had to jog to keep up with this woman. She had the itinerary down and knew how long it would take her to get to each location and we had to run to keep up. Did I mention my feet hurt? And I think the students overdid it the night before, LOL. Coming from a School of Architecture, an opportunity to sketch would have been great...maybe with a different guide.

This day was pretty much a day full of running, could have been more enjoyable if it had been recognized that we are also tourists and would like an opportunity to appreciate our surroundings. Everywhere we went was nice though. All walking, no metro at all.

We stopped at a cafe for lunch, at which point I realized how much the French eat bread. I'm allergic to wheat (remember my food allergies). Everyone got sandwiches, I took the meat and vegetables off the bread and ate that. We sat on the grass and ate lunch. Parisians really do enjoy outdoor living. I fed my bread to the birds. Parisian birds are crazy, LOL.



While relaxing on the grass I check on my feet, the blisters have popped and are bleeding...nice. Pharmacies in Paris are easy to locate with the flashing green crosses and the employees are super nice. Well they were nice to meet as I tried to mime neosporin to them. I finally took off my shoe, showed them the problem and they knew what to give me.



One thing you notice in Paris in May, apparently the days don't end. We continued our walks and get back to the hotel when we realize we have been walking for 14 hours, its about 10p and it was still light outside. Hmmm.

I Skype in the work, to my kids, take a shower, grab some twigglers from my food stash and then watch some French TV.

It was a good day.

Looks can be deceiving

We are still in the first few hours of day 1. Our flight landed at 11a, it is currently about 1p and we cannot check into our rooms until 3p.

So, the guy who got there before the rest of us (I'll call him Christian, because its his name and I'm about to talk about him), has a great suggestion. He thinks we should walk to the Louvre because it is a short walk away. We walk down Rue de Rivoli and it is a short walk to the Louvre.

Coming from a School of Architecture, we can really appreciate the architecture we are seeing. You don't realize how young the US is until you have been to Europe. It was breathtaking.

We silly Americans learn how to cross the street and get to the Louvre safely. And I get my first view of the Eiffel Tower. Wow!

We do our tourist thing and take pictures of and around the Louvre and we admire the architecture.



We are basically so caught up in the moment that when Christian suggests that we walk to the Eiffel Tower, we don't hesitate. We can see it!

**** I'll give you a moment to laugh for a few minutes ****



Ok, the Eiffel Tower has got to be at least 5-6 miles from the Louvre. I'm not exactly sure, but I know I'm not far off in my estimation. And the surroundings are so beautiful that you don't realize how far the Eiffel Tower is from the Louvre and I forgot how exhausted I was.

Looks can be deceiving in Paris.

So, if any of you have ever flown standby you know that a certain dress code is required. I was supposed to be flying first class, I'm dressed business casual...shoes and all. Now remember #5 in the previous blog, talking about packing comfortable shoes, well you also need to wear them.

We get to the Eiffel Tower and it is all that it is. The Seine and bridges are great, but I'm starting to notice that my feet are beginning to hurt a little.

We do the tourist thing and take pics of and around the Eiffel Tower, then do a boat tour on the Seine. The weather was a little cool but it was nice and we were sitting down. Get get back to the Eiffel Tower after the boat tour and thankfully catch the metro back to the hotel.


I would like to let the lady at the information desk in the metro to know that toilette is universal, she knew what I was saying. I shoulda peed on her!

We get to the hotel, it is so past 3p, we get checked in and unpacked.

I take a nice hot shower, get in my jammies and I'm off to bed. Forget about dinner, I'm wiped out! Get on Skype to check on my kids back home then it is sleep time for me.

Day 1 in Paris is finally over!

We're in Paris!!!


We struggle with the machines that give out RER passes. Finally get the passes, then the passes don't work. Maybe because I was swiping the receipt and not the actual pass. They look so much alike, LOL. Duh moment over, then I'm trying to squeeze my big 'ol suitcases through those little 'ol pass-throughs. The others on the other side waiting, and laughing a little too.

That's done, we get on the RER to Paris!!!! On the ride, you see graffiti on the train and the wall outside. You pass barios. This is a side of Paris that they do not show on TV.


We were going to Les Halles, so we exited the Chatelet Les Halles stop. Man, those doors close fast on the train...we lost 3 of our people who didn't get off in time. So now we have to get to the surface (Chatelet Les Halles is underground) so that we can try to find them, hoping they got off on the next stop...and most of our phones do not work.

Now we have 7 dummies trying to find the exit (you learn the word sortie really fast). We found an exit, but it was not the correct exit and ended up having to climb three levels of stairs trying to carry our overpacked American-sized luggage. That was fun. But it was a beautiful day!

We get to the surface, finally, and find our hotel easily enough. Thankfully it was right next to the metro. Now we have to try to find our lost lambs. Luckily one of them was really smart and with the one phone we could get to work was able to get the others to the hotel...but we cannot check in until 3p. The hotel (Citadines Les Halles) let us leave our luggage in a secured room until check in, so we decide to go to a cafe and eat.


How am I right now? Let's see, my stomach hurts from having to smell the bathrooms all night. I'm tired because I couldn't even relax in my crappy seat and I'm irritated because the Currency Exchange robbed me and I had to carry those heavy suitcases up all those stairs. Basically, I'm already exhausted. But I'm in Paris!

One of our guys had came a few days earlier than us so had got familiar with the neighborhood. Our flight had landed about 11a, it was a little after noon and we couldn't check in until 3p, so he took us to a close cafe next to the Fontaine des Innocents (Fountain of the Innocents). 

We are finally getting a chance to take a look around, and that's when it happened....that's when I fell in love.

It wasn't the architecture, not just the architecture...it was the feeling that came over me. For the first time in my life I felt like I belonged somewhere. I felt like I had come home. It was weird and deep.

We get to the cafe. Some of the students have parents that makes WAY more money than us, so they go nuts in the cafe. They are ordering crepes and bottled water and goodness knows what else. My stomach hurt, so I didn't want to eat anything but didn't want to just sit there, so I ordered the only thing I knew how say in French "des pommes frites"...french fries. The guy who had been there before us apparently had a few problems so he had some medicine that while I couldn't read it, the pictures clearly stated it's purpose...it was for upset stomachs and the pics were funny.


We have our extravagant lunch and then get the bill, over 2000 EU...holy smokes. The students go, "so we are splitting this 10 days?". Hecks naw, my fries cost 4.50EU. I paid, I tipped, I left them to pay their big bill.

Here are a few tips I'd like to give at this point:

1. If you fly standby, make sure you are checked-in when your bags are.

2. Do not exchange money at the Currency Exchange, it is easier to use the ATM right next to it and you don't get charged all those fees.

3. Be sure to keep your metro ticket because you cannot get out of the metro station without it. If you lose it, you have to buy another one just to exit the station.

4. Pack lightly. You don't need a lot.

5. Pack comfortable shoes (I'll tell you why in the next blog).

6. Learn to at least pronounce where you will be staying. If you ask a French person how to get to "Lay Halls", they will not know what you are talking about.

7. The tap water is free and very clean. A bottle of wine is cheaper than a bottle of water.

8. Don't be slow getting off the metro.


To Paris, with Love

May 10, 2010, the time has finally come!

I normally fly standby, so I have flown 1st class for the last 10 years. Of course on THIS day, the ladies at the front desk checked in my bags, but did not check me in..???? So, I went from being the first person on the standby list to getting the last available seat on the flight. Barely made the flight! Then I end up on the last aisle seat on the last row of the plan. I have officially gone from first class to worst class. So now, my first time flying coach in 10 years, I'm on a 9 hour overnight flight....next to the bathroom.

Apparently the flight was so full that the flight attendants did not have anywhere to put there belongings, so they put them behind my seat...now I cannot even recline that .00001 of an inch.

For this flight, I guess everyone was SO excited that they used the bathroom all night. Or they would come by the bathroom to stretch their legs, taking the time to get extremely close to me trying to read my book over my shoulder....like privates on my shoulder close. Now, I'm being molested and disgusted by the smells coming from the bathroom.

Ok ok ok....I know this is not starting off good, but I'd rather be miserable going to Paris than comfortable going anywhere else.

FINALLY, the shitty flight is coming to an end. Didn't have window access on the plane, so did not see Paris upon our approach.

We disembark (YAY!). I'm the farthest I've ever been from my children and my mother and start to panic a little. Then of course my sprint phone doesn't work in France...of course it doesn't.

Immigration and Customs went smoothly and swiftly, then there we are, in the lobby of CDG.

**** I want to stop here for a little background *****

I work for the State of Texas....not a high paying employer and I also have too many food allergies to name. Oh, and I have only a limited amount of French in my vocabulary.

With my limited funds, I didn't have a lot of money to work with. Luckily, because it was a group trip, most of our fees were paid up front (i.e. hotel, museum passes, etc.) and we were only going to be there for 10 days. Because of my food allergies, I had one small suitcase with food items that I knew would not kill me, so started with a $400 US budget. I'm not a big shopper and really only needed money for incidentals, any food I could find that I could eat and souvenirs. I know it's low, but it worked! Kinda.

**** Back to the lobby ****

We were going to catch the RER to the city so we needed Euros. Now, I had read up on pickpockets and such and am I not succeptible to scams, so I was not prepared to be robbed at the Currency Exchange window.....ugh!!!! That took 1/3 of my limited budget, hence the kinda previously mentioned.

The beginning - February 2010

I think I should start by giving a history on how this journey began.

February 2010, I was having a lot of personal things going on and knew they would get worse. I felt a desperate need to get away before the stuff hit the fan. Then I became aware that our program would be having doing a trip to Paris for the students. They had 9 people committed to the trip and needed a 10th for the trip to be viable....I volunteered :).

The trip was a go for May 2010. It was prearranged that we would be staying in Les Halles and that friends of the group leader would be our guides.

And so it begins.

The journey begins

I never thought I would have a blog. 

I have been to Paris twice and have an elementary understanding of the French language.

In my pursuit to relocate from Texas to Paris, France (have to be specific because there is a Paris, Texas) I thought my experiences would be helpful to others in pursuit of the same.

To start, trying to find a job in Paris (Europe) is a beast. 

As my journey continues I will post updates and important links and information as it becomes available to me.

Eventually I want to continue posting this blog...from Paris.

So, it begins.